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Discover How A Solid Wood Floor Can Improve The Value Of Your Home

by timber_floors

Discover How A Solid Wood Floor Can Improve The Value Of Your Home

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Everyone knows that a solid wood floor can add character, beauty and warmth to any room. Apart from its aesthetic appeal there are also quite a lot of other benefits of having a real wood floor. Although real wood floors can be quite expensive compared to the cost of the other types of flooring options, the fact is that the benefits of this type of flooring are so many that their cost is justified. Solid wood floors can increase the value of your home. Quite a lot of people who are planning to sell their property intend to fit their homes with wooden floorings before selling so that they can get a higher price for their property.

Benefits of Solid Wood Floors

Unlike the other types of flooring, the wooden floors manage to retain their value and their beauty for quite a lot of years. In fact, as they age they gain more charm because of the natural elements. Wooden floorings continue to age through time and gain more characters and it continues to evolve. This is particularly known as patina and it is one of the main benefits of a solid wooden floor.

Another major benefit of solid wood floors is that they are very easy to maintain. Today the types of wooden floorings which are available do not require any type of regimes for maintaining them and therefore nothing more than sweeping would be required in order to keep them clean. In the last few years, wooden floors have come a long way and today there are several different types of stains, grains, wood and styles available. With so much variety available, no matter what your tastes are you would be able to find the type of wood that matches your tastes. There are also quite a lot of online retailers where you would be able to find what you need for a good discount.

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Wood Floors Increase the Value of Your Home

Solid wood floors can increase the value of any home. According to a particular survey which had been done with estate agents in the US, 90% of the agents said that the houses which have real wood floors tend to sell faster and for higher prices. The beauty of wooden floors is maintained for years and it would retain its value over a long period of time.

Another reason why it increases the value of your home is that real wood tends to trap air and therefore has great insulation properties. For this reason you would also be able to save a lot on the heating bills. Also, since they are completely natural they are good for health. Wood does not accumulate any dust like the other floors and therefore they are great for the families that suffer from allergies. Wooden floors have quite a lot of benefits as can be seen above. For this reason it is not surprising that they add to the value of your house.

Find More Solid Wooden Flooring Articles

Leave a Comment March 12, 2011

Things To Consider When Buying Beautiful Oak Wood Flooring

by timber_floors

Things To Consider When Buying Beautiful Oak Wood Flooring

If you are allergic to other types of flooring and you want to have some enhancement to your house in regards to flooring, then Oak wooden flooring is considered to be the one of best options. These wooden floorings are very beautiful, durable, and affordable. Their installation is easy and they are easy to maintain with only minimal care needed. Oak flooringis available for use in all rooms, except for the bathroom, as this type of floor is not suitable for areas that have a lot of water and moisture.

These floors are solid and durable, so you don’t have to worry about damage being caused if you drop something. Oak wooden flooring comes in natural colours and there are even some varieties of laminate that have created a similar look.

Here are a few facts that will help you to buy Oak Wooden Flooring:

Decide on the amount that you would be willing to spend. There are laminates that look like flooring, but they are not real wooden floors, so check carefully before buying. There are several colours, species and grain variations in the wood used for flooring. The most popular is red oak natural and this look can really ignite a room. There are many varieties when it comes to colour choice, so consider if you are looking for something dark, or something light. This choice will also depend on the amount of light that you currently have within your house throughout the day. If you have a dark home with minimal sunlight, choosing a light floor tone can make the room look lighter. Darker shades are usually appropriate for formal interiors, while lighter colours look great within casual and contemporary interiors.

Decide upon the rooms that need new flooring, or if you are looking to replace the entire floor of the house. Be careful in areas that gather a lot of traffic, dirt and water. Many people avoid using wood in wet areas of the home, due to the damage that water can have. The installation of a wooden floor is quite easy and when people are laying the boards themselves, many prefer to buy pre finished wooden floorings. This option will save you time and money too. The majority of flooring types should come with a warranty and it is a good idea to choose one that does. There should be adequate protection from direct sunlight, as wood can fade in colour if placed in this constant situation. There are different price ranges and ultimately, the price will depend upon the grade of wood that you choose. Buying engineered wood is also a good option, as it is stronger and will last indefinitely.

Oak Wooden Flooring has 14mm and 20mm of thickness and is available in narrow or wide planks. They are also available in a matt or satin finished and your choice will depend entirely upon your budget.

Leave a Comment March 4, 2011

How To Fit Solid Wood Flooring

by timber_floors

How To Fit Solid Wood Flooring

How to fit Solid Wood flooring

It is important to start any flooring installation by firstly planning out the room and deciding where to start. Many rooms offer what at first appear to be very complicated situations to overcome. Don’t worry too much about these, all situations have a solution which are covered in this section, alternatively further information can be found in the handy hints and tips section.

Planning:-

When first presented with a room or area which is to be fitted with Solid wood flooring some key factors will help you to decide where to start your installation. Door ways, shape of room and locations of main window are all factors to take into consideration as well as the subfloor (existing floor which is to be covered with Solid wood floor) here are some rules and suggestions:-

Rules –

When laying Solid wood flooring on top of existing floor boards always lay the planks at 90 degrees to the floor boards

It is important not to end up with a piece of flooring at the end of a row which is less than 5cm in length or to have the last row less than 5cm in width. To avoid this measure the room’s width and length and divide the results by the dimensions of the flooring being installed. It may then be necessary to start the first row with a half plank or even to cut the width down to accommodate the area

An expansion joint will need to be inserted into any floor area which is larger than 8m in length or in width, in effect creating two floor areas

Acclimatise the boards in the room they are to be laid in for a minimum of 48 hours. The room should have a relative humidity of between 45% – 65% and a temperature of between 18C – 20C

Suggestions –

It is generally accepted that the best visual effect when installing Solid wood flooring is to lay the boards in the direction of the light source; so towards the main window (not forgetting rule 1 above)

It is also suggested that the floor should run along the longest wall of the room giving the best overall effect. (again take note of rule 1 above)

When laying a floor across a door way it is best practise to start at this point and work back into the room

Installation guide:-

Once your planning stage is complete it is time to prepare the room starting with the subfloor. It is vital that the subfloor is in optimal condition to allow the new floor to perform as expected and help to maintain its longevity

Subfloor preparation –

The main factors to consider are the smoothness, dryness and overall levelness of the floor. If the subfloor is uneven then the new floor will not last long as the pressure on the joints will cause the boards to separate

For concrete floors make sure that they are dry (it takes approx. 1 day per 1mm of wet concrete to be considered dry enough for a Solid wood floor to be installed). The relative humidity of the floor is also vital it should not exceed 85%

For wooden subfloors, ensure there is no movement in the floor. Any loose floor boards should be nailed or screwed securely in place. WBP (water and boil proof) ply can be used over existing floorboards to provide a suitable subfloor surface

All floors must be smooth and level

Finally all debris must be cleaned and the surface of the subfloor must be free from dust and other contaminants

Installation Techniques:-

There are three main ways to install a Solid Wood floor,

Secret nailing

Gluing directly to the subfloor

Installing the Solid wood onto a self adhesive underlay

All of these methods are perfectly acceptable methods of installation for a domestic application, each method has its benefits and draw backs. It is often the subfloor which will help to determine which installation is best suitable.

Installing the floor planks – Secret nailing –

Secret nailing a wooden floor is a method usually chosen when the existing subfloor is wood or when installing directly to joists. Solid wood flooring should have a minimum thickness of 21mm if it is to be fitted directly to joists.

It is possible to use the secret nail technique when the subfloor is concrete or screed. A damp proof membrane (DPM) needs to be placed over the concrete followed by an 18 – 24mm WBP plywood sheet.

Start the first row by loose laying the boards parallel to the wall allowing a 15mm expansion gap. Begin by resting the fitting wedges up against the wall to give you a 15mm gap. This is vital as the Solid boards will expand and contract after installation and if this gap is not present the floor will lift and buckle in the room. The wedges are removed after installation is complete and the gap is covered with either skirting or beading

At the end of the first row you will undoubtedly need to cut a board to length. A good way to measure the length of the board required is to rotate the loose board by 180 degree (facing upwards) so that the tongue is facing the tongue of the previous row. Rest the board next to the first row then mark and cut the boards to size.

(NB. When cutting Solid flooring ensure that a new blade is used)

Once you are happy with the alignment, ‘face nail’ the boards into the subfloor at intervals of 250-300mm or onto every joist. Face nailing is nailing through the top of the planks into the subfloor, counter sink the nails and fill in the dimples with wood filler.

Depending on the tools used and the width of the flooring installed, it may be necessary to face nail two or three rows before secret nailing can begin.

Continue laying rows of planks down ensuring that you keep the 15mm expansion gap around the perimeter of the room. Stagger the boards so that the end joint of each row is further than 150mm apart (brick bond)

Keeping the nails at a distance of 250 – 300mm, secret nail the planks into the subfloor. Secret nailing is a method where planks are secured through the tongue of the boards at a 45 degree angle and counter sunk to allow the groove of the next board to fit tightly. Mechanical nail guns are the best way to achieve professional results and make installation a lot easier.

The final row can be measured and marked to size using the following technique; firstly place the board to be marked directly on top of the last row laid. Place another plank on top of the loose plank but this time have the top plank pushed up against 15mm wedges against the wall to give you the correct measurement allowing for expansion. (be careful not to move the board to be marked) now draw a line along the edge of the top plank marking the board underneath.

The last few rows will also have to be face nailed as there will not be enough room for secret nailing.

Installing the floor planks – Direct gluing –

Direct gluing is a suitable method of installation when fixing on top of a concrete or screed subfloor. One benefit is that the overall height of the new floor is kep to a minimum as there is no need to install an 18mm WBP plywood base. It is also suitable over existing wood floors which are suitably flat and firm.

The subfloor must be flat, firm and level; if necessary a levelling compound may be used. It is important to remember that all subfloors must be dry.

A liquid damp proof membrane must be laid first and allowed to dry.

Using a suitable wood flooring adhesive apply an even coat to the subfloor. A notched trowel held at between 450 and 900 is the best method for this.

Start the first row by laying the boards parallel to the wall allowing a 15mm expansion gap. Begin by resting the fitting wedges up against the wall to give you a 15mm gap. This is vital as the Solid boards will expand and contract after installation and if this gap is not present the floor will lift and buckle in the room. The wedges are removed after installation is complete and the gap is covered with either skirting or beading

At the end of the first row you will undoubtedly need to cut a board to length. A good way to measure the length of the board required is to rotate the loose board by 180 degree (facing upwards) so that the tongue is facing the tongue of the previous row. Rest the board next to the first row then mark and cut the boards to size.

(NB. When cutting Solid flooring ensure that a new blade is used)

After two rows have been successfully installed weigh them down while the glue sets. Any glue which has seeped through to the surface should be removed immediately.

Continue laying rows of planks down ensuring that you keep the 15mm expansion gap around the perimeter of the room. Stagger the boards so that the end joint of each row is further than 150mm apart (brick bond)

Tension straps may be used to hold rows tightly together whilst the glue sets.

The final row can be measured and marked to size using the following technique; firstly place the board to be marked directly on top of the last row laid. Place another plank on top of the loose plank but this time have the top plank pushed up against 15mm wedges against the wall to give you the correct measurement allowing for expansion. (be careful not to move the board to be marked) now draw a line along the edge of the top plank marking the board underneath.

Installing the floor planks – Self adhesive underlay –

Solid flooring can also be laid as a floating floor using a self adhesive underlay. The boards are adhered directly to the underlay which holds the floor together. This method can be used for all subfloor types (following the rules set out above that subfloors be flat, firm and dry) the benefits of the self adhesive underlay is that the room can be used immediately with no drying time required for glue to set.

Lay the underlay at 90 degrees to the direction of the boards ensuring that there are no gaps between sheets but equally important is that the underlay does not overlap. When using the underlay over concrete, first lay a DPM with the edges overlapped by 20cm.

Peel back the foil from the underlay by the width of 2 ½ planks and fold over.

Using the supplied spare foil, lay this over the exposed adhesive surface of the underlay with enough surplus foil facing the wall to fold back over the top of the underlay

Place the fitting wedges up against the wall to give you a 15mm gap. This is vital as the Solid boards will expand and contract after installation and if this gap is not present the floor will lift and buckle in the room. The wedges are removed after installation is complete and the gap is covered with either skirting or beading

Position the first row along the wall and wedges allowing for the expansion gap and ensure that this is perfectly straight. (if the first row is not perfectly straight the entire floor will be ruined) At the end of the first row you will undoubtedly need to cut a board to length. A good way to measure the length of the board required is to rotate the loose board by 180 degree (facing upwards) so that the tongue is facing the tongue of the previous row. Rest the board next to the first row then mark and cut the boards to size

(NB. When cutting Solid flooring ensure that a new blade is used)

Now lay a second row, this will help to stabilise the two rows whilst the foil is removed as well as help to provide a straight line

Once you are satisfied the rows are straight and tightly fitted, peel back the loose foil sheet which will expose the adhesive underlay to the solid wood flooring thus holding the boars in place.

The loose foil may now be discarded. The remaining attached foil will be your work area where new rows will be rested on until you are happy that they are tightly fitted.

Continue to fit the rows down and peel away the foil to fix the boards into place.

The final row can be measured and marked to size using the following technique; firstly place the board to be marked directly on top of the last row laid. Place another plank on top of the loose plank but this time have the top plank pushed up against 15mm wedges against the wall to give you the correct measurement allowing for expansion. (be careful not to move the board to be marked) now draw a line along the edge of the top plank marking the board underneath.

Obstacles –

There are various obstacles you will come across when installing any flooring. The trick is to identify these at the beginning and plan when to tackle them. You do not want to end up at an obstacle where you may need to remove some flooring you have already installed to enable you to deal with the situation.

Door frames are inevitable as almost all rooms will have these. It is necessary to remove a section of architrave and door jam to allow the Solid to be fitted under them, thus hiding the expansion gap away from sight. To do this you will need to place a piece of underlay and an upturned board against the door frame. Using a long saw pressed against the Solid floor begin to cut into the door frame. Make your cut until you reach the wall behind the door frame. Do not worry about cutting into the skirting as the beading will cover this. Remove as much of the door frame as possible so as to allow the right expansion room for the Engineered.

Measure and mark the Solid to fit and then install. When faced with a room where there are doors on both sides of a room and the Solid is installed across the door way it may be necessary to use glue to fit a board at one of these doors. As it is impossible to install the board at 30 degrees and still slide it under the architrave you will need to remove some of the locking joint on the previous row.

Remove the lip along the tongue of the long edge using a sharp chisel. Apply glue to this edge. Slide the board to be fitted under the door architrave and then pull it back into place along the previous row.

Radiator pipe covers can either protrude through the floor or from the wall. If they are floor mounted then the Solid will need to be cut around the pipes with an expansion gap. Measure and mark the position of the pipes on the Solid board and cut the holes out using a 32mm spade drill bit. This should allow for the 15mm pipe and an expansion gap. Then remove the excess Solid to allow the board to be placed against the pipes. The area of Solid removed should represent a keyhole shape. Keep the off cuts of the Solid as these can be glued back into place once the plank is installed.

Leave a Comment February 25, 2011

Why Engineered Wood Flooring is Best

by orayzio

Why Engineered Wood Flooring is Best

Wooden floors have been a common preference for many homeowners and interior designers over the years because it presents a warm, beautiful, and sophisticated look to any house that laminate and vinyl are unable to match. Nevertheless, wood flooring is now getting to be much more widely used for the reason that engineered wood flooring has created the choice both more effective and a lot less expensive so that it is an excellent option for every household. Entirely eco-friendly and with several finishes and colours available, engineered wood flooring is one of the top purchases that you could make for your home.

In brief, engineered wood flooring is flooring that are developed by layering solid wood and MDF together and then gluing and pushing the layers to produce a stable fit. Each of the layers is very carefully placed to make sure that a cross grain construction is produced which lends to its durability and good tolerance to water and dampness. This also helps prevent the wood flooring from warping over a period of time, which can be one of the major issues which home owners encounter with real wood floors. In fact, given the distinct characteristics of engineered wood flooring there’s been an influx in creative designs such as edging and radiator roses.

In addition there are a wide selection of widths and thickness to select from, though more often than not 3 and 5 ply flooring is bought with regards to engineered wood flooring. As stated before, its ability to deal with moisture which makes it the most appropriate flooring for many rooms where commonly you wouldn’t consider wood flooring to be a possibility such as cellars, and bath rooms. Mainly because as opposed to its solid wood counterpart, engineered wood is able to bear up to high volumes of traffic in addition to any differences (irrespective of exactly how dramatic) in temperature and moisture.

Engineered wood flooring is usually more favourable as a flooring option in many cases because it comes in pre-finished and finished styles, enabling the individual to easily install the floor in one step and it is instantly functional. In addition, since engineered wood floors are normally only about three-eighths to five-eighths of an inch thick, it makes it possible for them to be fitted on top of already present floor surfaces which makes installation a truly straightforward procedure. Therefore, rather than worrying about finishing, sanding, or removing the existing floor before an area is ready for use, engineered wood flooring could be installed in only one day.

As soon as it is the time to actually install engineered wood flooring into a house there is the selection between lengthier panels for installs that are ‘floating’ in style, or simply opt for the effortless tongue and groove boards, which can make it more realistic to think about installing the flooring without the need of any specialist assistance.

Lastly, there is a demand to take a close look at the veneer of the wood flooring that is being thought about considering that the thickness of the layers will denote how eye-catching the end product comes out to be.

The alternate options to engineered wood flooring are laminate and real wood. Each of which have their pros and cons.

Laminate floors appear to be similar in looks to real wood floors but are normally more cost effective and in some ways being more robust, and with distinctive finishes and beveling options available this kind of flooring can certainly still provide a real wood look at a portion of the cost . Because the laminate is not affixed to the sub floor, leveling is vital to ensuring a top quality finish. If the sub floor is bumpy the laminate floors may have a bouncy feel to it. Because some laminates simply click together without the need of adhesive it is quick to fit. Solid wood floors, as the name suggests, are a type of wood flooring that is solid wood all the way through. With its natural beauty as its principal focus, its drawback is that it might be susceptible to scrapes and dents though this isn’t essentially a serious problem in the long term due to the fact that real wood floors can be sanded down on many occasions.

Leave a Comment February 25, 2011

The difference between solid wood flooring and engineered wood flooring

by Joost J. Bakker IJmuiden

The difference between solid wood flooring and engineered wood flooring

On first inspection there isn’t any great aesthetic difference between solid wood and engineered wood flooring. However before you rush out and opt for the cheapest wood floor there are a few pros and cons to weigh up for both engineered and solid wood floors.

Construction

Solid wood flooring is milled from the tree to give a solid wood plank which has an uninterrupted wood grain and is solely constructed of one solid section of wood. They are mostly constructed with a tongue and groove format.

Engineered wood floors consist of a top layer of natural hardwood which is stuck to a cross layered section of natural soft or hard wood known as ply wood. The cross layering of the ply enables the plank to be more stable due to the glue used so that when the wood expands width ways the different angles reduce the amount of expansion.

Durability

Solid wood flooring is more durable than engineered as it gains its strength from being one solid piece of wood and can be re-sanded and refinished with different waxes, stains or oils more times then engineered. Though the life of any floor does depend on how well it is looked after with recommended care products.

Engineered wood flooring is still very durable and can only be re-sanded five times as the top hardwood layer cannot withstand more.

Really good maintenance is key to durability as when the right cleaning products are used a wood floor can last a very long time.

Stability

Solid wood floor isn’t considered as stable as engineered due to its seasonal movements, meaning that they are susceptible to expansion and contraction with humidity changes in the home. A small perimeter gap accommodates this movement. Solid wood floor is not generally recommended if underfloor heating is already installed as the heat can cup and warp the boards. It is also not advisable to lay solid wood flooring on concrete, unless a full moisture test has been carried out and it is sealed, as the levels of moisture can also affect the boards.

Engineered wood flooring is more stable and more multi functional then solid wood as it is suitable for laying on underfloor heating, concrete and is compatible with most types of underlay making it a good option for those living in second floor and basement flats.

Installation

Solid wood floor can be stuck down or secret nailed and it is not recommended that they are floated over underlay as the joints are glued down and wouldn’t allow the boards to move with seasonal humidity and moisture.

Engineered wood flooring can be stuck down, nailed and floated. It is versatile but does still require a perimeter gap just to be on the safe side with slight board movements.

Related Engineered Wood Flooring Articles

Leave a Comment February 21, 2011

The Interior Trend. Oak Wood Flooring

by timber_floors

The Interior Trend. Oak Wood Flooring

People spend so much time worrying about colour schemes, wall coverings and lighting that they forget one of the most important things. The floor. Many people will be so exhausted by the whole organisation of redesigning a room that they usually pick the first flooring that they see.

The key to designing a fantastic room is to start from the bottom and work your way up. By leaving the lighting till last you can decide which parts of the room you would like to focus on and light up. You can also gauge the feel of the room so if you have designed a comfy room you can use soft lighting to create a mood or if you have designed a functional room you can use spotlights to light up work spaces. When it comes to wood flooring many people choose oak.

Oak is a great wood that is versatile yet strong. It will last for as long as you room scheme (and for many years more). The beauty of real wood floors is that they age with the house or the room. Each stage of aging brings new colours to a real wood floor which will give you an ever changing scheme. Of course there are several ways you can finish your real wood floor. With real oak flooring many people like to protect it from scratches and dents and so have the floor lacquered. This lacquer finish will protect the floor for many years but you should be prepared to re-lacquer the floor when required. Real wood floors do take some looking after but in return you get a beautiful floor that will last a lifetime. In order to maintain your wood flooring you should sweep and mop your floor frequently. You should also check for any problems or damages that may have occurred, especially under furniture or high traffic areas as these are the most likely places for problems. If a crack or scratch isn’t dealt with then it will only get worse and may even be cause for replacement. It can be difficult to decide which wood floor you would like which is where a mood board comes in handy. A mood board is a collection of all of the items you want in your room displayed together so you can see how they go together. Samples of wood floors are great for mood boards and will show you how well everything fits together.

If you are designing your new room or are just looking for inspiration, the easiest and quickest way to find what you want is to browse on the internet. You can find a whole multitude of items and pictures on the internet so why not get looking today and get designing your perfect room.

Find More Solid Oak Wood Flooring Articles

Leave a Comment February 6, 2011

Versatile Wood Flooring With Click Technology For Easy Installation

by Max_au

Versatile Wood Flooring With Click Technology For Easy Installation

Wood flooring is becoming increasingly popular amongst homeowners due to its versatility, low maintenance and high quality appearance. Unfortunately, installation can be reasonably difficult; this often puts people off opting for wooden flooring.

For individuals that are new to DIY, this can be particularly daunting, especially if they choose to purchase their new flooring from an online retailer. However, there are specialists that have a solution to this problem, click wood flooring. This innovative product is simply clicked into place with no need for nails or glue.

The click wood flooring that they supply is incredibly easy to install yet it offers the same look and feel as standard wooden flooring. They even provide solid wood click flooring, so customers do not have to compromise on quality.

What’s more, as they are primarily based online they are able to keep costs low, meaning that customers do not have to pay over the odds for their wood flooring. Prices start from just £26.79 m², almost half of the usual retail price.

Wood flooring can add a touch of luxury to any home; it can add a traditional look to new-build homes and enhance the appearance of older properties. Their click wood flooring is available in both lacquered and oiled varieties, and in rustic forest or brown oak.

In addition to click wood flooring these specialists also offer a range of flooring to suit many different styles and budgets including engineered wood flooring, laminate flooring, karndean and solid wood flooring.

If you are looking for a stylish new floor that is relatively hassle free to fit, even if you are a DIY novice, take a look at the wood flooring available from online suppliers, or give them a call to discuss the products that will suit your home best.

Find More Click Flooring Articles

Leave a Comment February 4, 2011

Wood Fireplaces and Stoves

by lumierefl

Wood Fireplaces and Stoves

Traditional wood fireplaces and stoves have been used for centuries. Traditional fireplaces are very inefficient in heating a room, as they primarily use radiant energy to provide warmth.  Traditional fireplaces and stoves use the air from the room to provide oxygen for combustion. Wood fireplaces are available in a wide variety of styles and building materials.  Wood burning stoves also are available in a multitude of styles colors and features, based on your heating needs.  Wood burning appliances  require a class A chimney.  The chimney may be built of masonry or of double lined steel.  There are options to consider for both wood burning fireplaces and wood burning stoves.

Wood Fireplace Options

Traditional fireplaces, constructed of firebrick and mortar, are designed to burn logs.  The styles and sizes of fireplaces are as varied as the architects who have designed them.  Traditional fireplaces are usually built onsite utilizing brick masons, cinder blocks, fire brick and ceramic flues.  The chimney of the fireplace needs to extend above the highest point of the roof to avoid downdrafts. The size and weight of a traditional fireplace requires a substantial and stable foundation.  Usually traditional fireplaces are built during new construction.

Fireplace inserts have gained in popularity, as they are much cheaper and lighter than traditional fireplaces.  Fireplace inserts are built in factories and shipped pre-assembled to the home, resulting in less labor costs for installation.  Wood fireplace inserts also are designed to be installed next to wood materials, with close clearances, allowing wood framing to be used in chimney construction. Many metal fireplace inserts have air ducts and fans to increase the amount of heat transferred from the fire.

Both fireplace inserts and traditional fireplaces require the installation of flame proof  hearth on the floor.  The hearth is required to prevent logs that may roll out of the fireplace from setting the floor on fire.

Wood Stove Options

Traditional wood burning stoves are made of cast iron.  Antique stoves are not air tight, preventing accurate regulation of the fire. Because the flame is hard to regulate, more heat is lost in the flue gases, reducing the stove’s overall heating efficiency.  The thick cast iron used in construction of older stoves allows an extremely long useful life.  Stoves built in the early 1800’s are still in use with little restorative work.  An ornate antique stove from the Victorian era could be a main architectural feature of a house.

Airtight stoves became popular during the 1970’s because of their greater efficiency.  One load of wood could be set to burn all night. The advantage of the airtight stove is in the long burning time and greater fuel efficiency.  Less heat is lost up the chimney.  Also, modern airtight stoves have catalytic converter options that help reduce the amount of creosote and other unburned gases going up the flu.

Both types of wood stoves need to be placed on fireproof surfaces.  Because of the radiant heat emitted, adequate clearance of the stove from flammable walls, floor materials and fabrics needs to be maintained.

Both wood burning fireplaces and stoves provide an impressive architectural feature for a room.  A well built fireplace or stove could be an added source of heat for your house.

Variety of Fireplaces

Fireplaces have been a traditional architectural feature of a house.  Fireplaces originally provided heat for cooking as well as keeping the house warm. Fireplaces kept the same basic design for thousands of years.  In the 16th century, the idea of raising the wood on a grate improved the heating effectiveness of the fireplace.  Ben Franklin implemented the next improvement in fireplace design.  The Franklin stove, built out of cast iron, captured more heat from burning wood.  Count Rumford modified the fireplace by creating a tall, shallow box, resulting in greater radiant efficiency.  Now, fireplaces are available with advanced options and features to meet any design or lifestyle need. The following five fireplaces are the most popular:

Wood Burning Fireplaces

Wood burning fireplaces are either masonry or factory built inserts.  Masonry fireplaces are labor intensive, and are built on site out of fire bricks, cinder block, clay chimney liners and brick or stone, depending on the surround. Masonry fireplaces usually include a hearth, mantel, grate, firebox, and damper.

Fireplace inserts are manufactured off-site and are easier to install.  Fireplace inserts use a double walled steel chimney that is light and easy to install.

Gas Burning Fireplaces

Gas burning fireplaces come in a huge variety of styles to meet any decorating requirement.  There are three major types of gas burning fireplaces: Direct vent, vent free, and inserts.  Gas burning fireplaces may be double sided, or any unique shape to make a design statement for a room. Direct vent gas fireplaces use outside air for combustion.  Since gas fireplaces have electronic ignition, some have remote controls or thermostats to create a comfortable room temperature.

Vent free fireplaces  provide greater options for placing fireplaces in rooms that may not have access to an outside wall or for a chimney.  Vent free fireplaces are extremely efficient, as no heat is lost through flu gas.  However, the room supplies the oxygen needed for combustion.  Some building codes require fresh air sources for vent free fireplaces.

Direct vent fireplaces use outside air for combustion.  This type of fireplace has the option of venting through a wall to the outside instead of a chimney, reducing labor for installation.  Advanced Do-it-yourselfers may be able to successfully install a direct vent fireplace, with the help of a plumber for the gas connection.

Pellet Fireplaces

Pellet fireplace inserts have become more popular as a source of heat for a room and because of the improved efficiency of a pellet fire over a traditional log fire.  Pellet fireplace inserts are available for new installations and retrofits into older masonry fireplaces.  Pellet fireplaces offer the advantage of a controlled burn through pellets supplied through a hopper to the firebox.  Some models are thermostatically controlled with electronic ignition.

Electric Fireplaces

For convenience and ease of installation, electric fireplaces offer new alternatives.  The new electric fireplaces have a more realistic appearing fire than in earlier models.  Most electric fireplaces have built in electric heaters to help provide warmth to a room.

Gel Fireplaces

A vent free gel fireplace provides the option of a real fire with the portability of an electric fireplace.  Gel fireplaces are starting to increase in popularity with buyers who want a real fire, but want the ease and mobility of an electric fireplace.

Leave a Comment January 28, 2011

Laminate Wood Flooring – Creating Elegance in Any Room

by sneakymoose

Laminate Wood Flooring – Creating Elegance in Any Room

Laminate flooring is an outstanding alternative for any room. It installs easily and is able to stand up to serious traffic. Today, manufacturers are able to imitate the look of real wood.

At first glimpse you might believe you were looking at hardwood flooring. What you are actually looking at is a very thin piece of wood. This wood is glued to high density backing board. Higher quality laminate flooring, such as DuPont laminate flooring will also have a foam padding secured to the flooring planks which will assist in soundproofing and provide a more genuine feel to the floor when walking on it.

With most laminate wood flooring today, no glue is needed. Most companies tha manufacture this flooring have their own special locking technology. Simply snap them together and you are all set. Taking a few simple steps before buying your flooring will save you frustration down the road. Examine the area you plan to install the flooring. Visualizing the traffic flow will help you verify the appropriate product for your room. It will stand up to your kids and pets for years to come.

Laminate flooring also resists staining, fading and moisture. Many manufacturers offer warranties on their flooring for up to 25 years.

Are you putting off installing laminate wood flooring for the reason that you do not want to deal with ripping up your existing flooring? No problem, laminate can be installed directly over wood, tile or vinyl due to its “floating” feature. Floating just means it does not connect to any sub floor.

Over the course of your home ownership, you can anticipate to refinish hardwood 3-4 times. Vinyl and carpet at least twice, if not more. With laminate, it can last you right through all your home ownership years.

You will be amazed at all the assorted types and styles available on the market today. Plus, many manufacturers make all the moldings, end caps and transition strips for your laminate wood flooring.

If you are susceptible to allergies, laminate floors offer a cleaner setting when you compare to carpets. Dust, pet dander and other allergens stay on the surface instead of getting trapped in the fibers of carpeting.

The bottom line is this on laminate flooring, it is very resilient and inexpensive. In general the cost is much lower than any other product on the market. Depending on the magnitude of your project, you can install it in a weekend.

Leave a Comment January 21, 2011

Why is Real Wood Flooring Graded?

by bsabarnowl

Why is Real Wood Flooring Graded?

Real wood flooring is an incredibly rewarding product to use in the home, and if well-maintained will improve with age and add value to your home. It can be a bit daunting choosing real wood flooring for the first time if you’ve never done it before since there are so many decisions to make! These include, the type of wood (e.g. oak, walnut etc.), the finish (e.g.. solid, laquer, stained, oiled etc.), the board size, and also the fitting profile (e.g. tongue and groove). Another aspect often overlooked or misunderstood for its mystery is the wood grade.

Acknowledging the grade of your real wood flooring is important, as it will help you understand the product you’re purchasing better, and also inform you of the quality of the product and how long it’s likely to last. Real wood flooring is graded because wood is a natural material, and therefore no two planks will be exactly the same. Wood, like other natural material will vary immensely in colour, density, and strength. Some types of wood may also have more or less imperfections and natural weakness in their composition, and therefore may be either more or less suitable for application as flooring. Largely speaking, the grading system is in place to distinguish between what are considered more, and less aesthetically pleasing natural appearances.

There are a number of different types of grading used to distinguish between real wood flooring, but let’s start with the Classic Grade. This title is used to define wood that is generally speaking, considered to be the highest grade, and most aesthetically pleasing. Woods in this category are characterised by the least variation in colour, grain and knots. In other words, a wood with a consistent colour tone, with the straightest grain and fewest knots. Such types of wood awarded the classic grade include Walnut, Ash and Elm.

One of the next most notable grades for distinguishing between types of real wood flooring is the Character Grade. This grade is awarded to wood that may feature more variation with regard to colour tones (such as Oak), and less standard grain and knot prevalence. Character grade real wood flooring often features wood with knots that react more dramatically to kiln drying, often cracking. This is quite common, and these knots are sanded and filled with a special resin and then sanded down again.

The last of the more common wood grades used in categorising real wood flooring is Rustic Grade wood. This grade is awarded to wood that features significantly more variation with regard to colour tones, and in particular in knot size and grain direction and spacing. Generally speaking this grade can include wood that features almost and unlimited amount of variation, whether natural or through defect. Again, many of the features of rustic wood are filled and sanded before it is sold to ensure it is structurally sound.

Leave a Comment December 20, 2010